Big Country Pt. 2 - Arizona

Sedona and Montezuma's Castle

Feb 26, 2025

Introductory note

I started to write this post shortly before the announcement by the US government to cut/freeze funding for the National Park Service (NPS). As well the impact on the National Park staff who are losing their jobs (and those that are at risk), there are serious and real concerns about the safety of the public who use the parks, as well the preservation of historical and culturally important sites (such as Montezuma’s Castle that is mentioned here).

It does make me wonder if those that make these sweeping cuts actually step outside of their offices, and go outside much…

Because if they did, it might open their eyes to things beyond the profit/loss figures on a spreadsheet, or whatever political agenda they have in mind.

‘Bucket lists’

I am not a fan of the idea of a ‘bucket list’. To me, having a bucket list of places to visit or things to do before you ‘kick the bucket’ diminishes the place or the thing that you wanted to do. Plus, bucket lists have a distinct consumerist feel about them. You do the thing, or visit the place, tick if off, and then move on. Next!

Having said all of that, if I were to compile a list of places that I would like to see before I die, the Grand Canyon would be most definitely on that list. However, in a bucket-list sense, I can tick it off as I was able to visit parts of it (South Rim) from my first visit to Arizona in 2018.

To me, the Grand Canyon is one of those natural wonders, a bit like the Great Barrier Reef or the Northern Lights, that have to be seen to be believed. And until you have the chance and are fortunate enough to see these places, they exist in a facsimile through what you have constructed in your imagination. Films and books often come in handy with this construction. Although one of my first introductions to the Grand Canyon was watching Thelma and Louise in my teens. Hmm… no spoilers here!

So when I first visited Arizona in 2018, I asked my now-husband if we could visit the Grand Canyon. We stayed in one of the park’s hotels for two nights and hired bikes during the day. And then we watched the Canyon’s rim change from orange, to violet and then inky black as the sun set.

We were returning to Phoenix from that trip when we passed through the city of Sedona; a place known for its rock formations, as well as its art and wellness communities. And then, a little further south there was a sign for Montezuma’s Castle, an ‘apartment’ that had been constructed in a limestone cliff, and believed to have been built by the Sinagua people.

I made a mental note to see if we could fit both of these places into a future visit.

Sedona in 2025

The first thing that struck me about Sedona was the colour of the land. It was in stark contrast to the paler colours of the drive north from Phoenix on the I-17 highway.

As we drove to our hotel, I noticed how the ground and the rocks burned in varying shades of red and orange. And I was reminded of the surface of Mars, or at least what I imagine the surface of Mars looks like (again, thanks to the various space-related films and books for their input here).

But it was only by getting out of the car and going for a hike that I was able to fully appreciate the range of colours, and the scale of the rock formations:

Bell Rock as seen from the path leading to the visitor car park

We did a short hike as we had other plans, but I’d love to return and venture further north

I don’t have an eye for landscape photography, mainly because I know that my photos will never do a place justice. Plus, on the recent trip to Arizona, I foolishly only took my 50mm lens so I ended up taking more photos using my iPhone. But in a way, the fact that I was limited with my camera equipment meant that I wasn’t hustling to try and take pictures at every available opportunity. Instead, when my husband and I were hiking, I just enjoyed the walk without trying to ‘capture’ every moment.

Montezuma’s Castle

On the return leg to Phoenix, I asked if we can make a stop at Montezuma’s Castle (located off I-17).

The site is managed by the National Park Service, and upon purchasing our tickets, we were informed that there shouldn’t be any rattlesnakes as it was too cold. Then the park warden said: ‘But it’s probably best to stick to the paths!’

There shouldn’t be any snakes…? 🐍

Anyway, the name ‘Montezuma’s Castle’ is a misnomer on two fronts because it wasn’t a castle, and nor was it in any way linked to the Aztec Empire. When the European-American settlers came across the ruins in the 19th century, they mistakenly (cluelessly) believed that there was some connection to the Aztecs. And so they called it Montezuma’s Castle and that name has stuck. I mean, it’s not like it was the first time that (mostly white) men have decided to name something that better suited their own version of events.

It is believed that the castle was in fact a dwelling, and the site was chosen for its access to good agricultural land and to a nearby water source, while the natural alcove offered protection from the elements, as well as providing a high vantage point making it difficult for invaders to infiltrate.

In a win for archaeology and for the preservation of Native American locations in the USA, the cliff dwelling was one of the first places to be declared a National Monument in 1906. Since then, archaeologists have discovered a range of artefacts that support the idea that several Native American people have lived in and used the cliff dwelling over centuries.

As I mentioned earlier, the first inhabitants of the dwelling were believed to the Sinagua people who constructed the shell and accompanying rooms over 1000 years ago. More recently, several Native American communities such as the Hopi and Yavapai trace their ancestry to the area and will return to perform religious ceremonies.

You cannot climb up to see the dwelling anymore. Probably for the best!

This quote stood out to me in the visitor centre

It didn’t take us long to wander around the area (perhaps no more than 45 minutes, including time in the gift shop), but I am glad that we paused at the site on our drive. My husband commented that he never noticed the sign to Montezuma’s Castle before despite taking the I-17 north and south countless times!

Thanks for reading!

Until next time,

Sarah

The Best of Intentions with Sarah Best

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